Alrighty. Now that you've got a place to stay, be it a couch, a futon, or a cardboard box on the corner, it's time to start exploring.
LA is huge, and it's hard to get your head around it. Here's my little guide to pockets of LA where I've been. This is by no means comprehensive, and everyone you meet will have their own take on it, but here's my two cents.
1. Buy a map called the THOMAS GUIDE to Los Angeles and Ventura Counties.
It's pretty confusing, but here's how it works. The pages cover horizontal slices of LA from left to right. There are little numbers on all 4 sides of each page. To get below the section you're looking at, find the number on the bottom of the page and match it with the same number on the top of the another page further in the map.
For instance, Hollywood is on a page with 633 on the bottom. Flip through the pages until you find 633 on the top, and that's the section right below Hollywood. The same idea works for the other 3 sides of each page. You'll get it. You will.
2. To me, LA is divided into 7 MAIN SECTIONS. Yes, there are more, but here's the biggies.
Hollywood
(Franklin to Sunset and more)
The Valley
(Ventura, North Hollywood, Burbank, Glendale, Pasadena,
and tons of other little "cities")
West LA
(Sunset Strip, Santa Monica Blvd, Melrose)
South LA
(below Melrose down to The 10)
Beverly Hills
(Southwest of Hollywood. It's clean. You'll know it when you see it.)
Downtown
(the courthouse, The Staples Center,
bank and insurance buildings, one-way streets)
The Coast
(Malibu, Pacific Pallisades, Santa Monica, Venice,
Marina Del Rey, Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach)
You got all that???
3. People will casually mention other places that sound close but are REALLY FAR AWAY.
San Diego, Long Beach, Anaheim, Santa Barbara...
If you live near Hollywood, here's hoping your car is comfortable, because it's going to take 2 to 3 hours to get to any of these locations. And then another 2 to 3 hours to get back. You've gotta be committed.
4. Major Studios and Production Facilities are spread out all over.
BURBANK - Disney, Warner Bros, NBC, ABC
UNIVERSAL CITY - Universal Studios
HOLLYWOOD - Paramount
SOUTH LA and NORTH HOLLYWOOD - CBS
CENTURY CITY - Fox
CULVER CITY - Sony/MGM
WEST LA - New Line Cinema
5. Freeways are no longer called "eye-one-ten" or "interstate five." Everything is called "THE" and then a number.
So there's "The 5"
(sort of North and South from Downtown to The Valley),
and "The 101"
(sort of East and West from Ventura past downtown),
and "The 134" (East and West from Universal to Pasadena)
and "The 405" (North and South from LAX to The Valley)
You get the drift.
Oh, and then there's The PCH (Pacific Coast Highway).
It's actually "The 1" but nobody calls it that.
It runs all the way down the coast to Santa Monica.
6. Signage SUCKS.
There's no on-ramps, no easy-to-read notices that let you know you're now heading to San Francisco, just little signs right before you enter and then there's no turning back. You'll make a left turn and then holy crap you're on the freeway! Remember to bring your Thomas Guide so you can choose an exit wisely.
7. RUSH HOUR is between 4pm and 8pm.
If you're counting, that's 4 hours. Not that you'll be in the car that long, but it's a good idea to grab something to eat and drink before you go. And make sure your AC and stereo works. You're gonna be there for a while.
8. Stop judging locations by distance. Start judging them by TIME.
This requires major mental surgery. Beverly Hills is 10 miles from my house. It takes me 45 minutes to get there. It shouldn't, but it does. The joke is that everybody lives 20 minutes from everywhere in LA. Not quite. So it's a good idea to give yourself at least an hour to get where you're going. Well, better make that an hour and a half.
9. Traffic is constant, and freeways are not a faster way to get where you're going. Just an alternate way.
Every road is busy all the time. There are 10 million people in the Southland and they're all in front of YOU. Try not to look at the speed limit signs on the freeways, taunting you with their promises of going 65 miles and hour. Most of the time, you'll be doing less than 50. Some of the time, you'll be doing less than 10. And once in a while... well, remember that scene in "Office Space" where the old guy in the walker passes Peter's car? You get the idea.
Whew! You made it! You also realized you need to make more iPod playlists and get a cell phone charger for your car. Now you know where places are and how to get there. Next time, I'll let you know about PARKING once you do.
Comments
This is great!
Also, here's a mnemonic for remembering the street names in Hollywood and their order.
You just need to remember the following phrase:
"Happy Sunny Santa Monica Beach"
Happy -> Hollywood Blvd.
Sunny -> Sunset Blvd.
Santa -> Santa Monica Blvd.
Monica -> Melrose Ave.
Beach -> Beverly Dr.
Hope this helps someone who can't remember which one is before which
W
If I may offer a Native's perspective...
Thanks for posting your guide. I think it'll help a lot of people who are new to the Southland. As a Third-Generation Native raised in The Valley (as we call the San Fernando Valley) I'd like to offer a few thoughts.
First, the freeways. Even I get confused by the numbers game, and as I've been here since there was only one freeway, I'll tell you what we Natives did then and still do to help keep it straight: we use the names rather than the numbers. For example:
I-5 is the Golden State Freeway
170 is The Hollywood Freeway
The I-10 (AKA The Eye-One-Oh) is The Santa Monica Freeway
The 405 is the San Diego Freeway
The 134, which becomes the 101 is the Ventura Freeway
The 110 is the Harbor Freeway
Those are most of the main freeway names, the others are just variations on the theme. I tell you, when the traffic repoprts start on the radio, I get brain-numb real quick when all they use are the numbers, so the names help me keep it together in my head.
Another concern... WATER. This is, in fact, the low desert. ALL of our domestic water comes from the Owens Valley Aqueduct, The California Aqueduct, and the Colorado River Aqueduct. At this time, our population in the Southland exceeds our water supply by over 200%. PLEASE, do not waste water, use it sparingly. Whatever amount of water you used back home, cut that in half at least. And please, don't be fooled by artful fictions like CHINATOWN (a travesty against L.A. history if ever there was one) or revisionist crap like CADILLAC DESERT. If it wasn't for the heroic work of William Mulholland and the Bureau of Water Works & Supply (predecessor of the DWP), most of us wouldn't be here. We didn't steal the water from Owens Valley, we bought it at the rate of FOUR times the market value, fair and square. Mulholland was well-loved during his time; only the PC revisionists have reviled his work while quenching their thirst with the water he supplied. If you drink bottled water (contrary to popular belief, the stuff that comes from the DWP taps is really OK to drink) then the best you can get is Sparkletts. Arrowhead is the worst, not only in terms of taste, but also because Arrowhead has more chemicals in their bottled water than the tap water from the faucet. Sparkletts, on the other hand, bottles their water directly from the artesian wells they own at the south end of Eagle Rock Boulevard, without adding a bunch of harmful chemicals. You can really taste the difference.
HISTORY. Los Angeles actually has a long, rich cultural history. This city was incorporated in 1783. So many folks from back East think this place is a blank slate, just waiting for YOU to remake it into what YOU think it should be. It's not, and we Angelinos are as proud of our history as those from New York, Boston, or D.C. Please respect it. A lot of it is still there, if you know where to look. I recommend Brand Park and Library in Glendale; the Southwest Museum in Highland Park; The L.A. County Museum of Natural History, and other too numerous to mention here.
SMOKING. If you are a smoker, STAY OUT OF OUR MOUNTAINS. Period! Chapparal is a tinderbox just waiting to be lit. You've seen it firsthand this October.
As long as we're mentioning mountains, I'll say a word about WILDLIFE. L.A. is the only American city I know of that has actual wilderness area within the city limits, especially Griffith Park. Here you'll find mountain lions, bobcats, bears, skunks, possums, coyotes, and all manner of birds and reptiles. They all have a job to do here, and the last thing you need to do is harm them or try to eradicate them. Especialy the snakes, rattlers included. They are a VERY important part of our ecosystem. If you encounter any such animals, especially a rattlesnake, DON'T TRY TO KILL IT or anything else. They were here first, and deserve our respect.
Also, if you decide to visit our National Forests, LEAVE THE BOOM BOXES AND GHETTO BLASTERS AT HOME!!! You can learn a lot in our forests, if you're quiet and allow the voices of Nature to be heard.
FILMING. If you come across a film being shot, screw the protocol, and approach one of the crew. Sound men are usually the most approachable and will often talk to a "civilian." The camera crew is usually too busy to chat, but sometimes the actors will allow you to approach. Often, that's the way a person who is new to the area and the industry makes contacts. So, don't be shy, but do be respectful and polite. I know that whenever I'm directing a shoot, I always welcome the public, and I try to take the time to chat when it doesn't interfere with the work. It's called NETWORKING. Having a big head never gets you anywhere.
HOLLYWOOD'S BORDERS. Hollywood is bordered on the north by the Hollywood Hills; the west between La Brea and Fairfax; the south by Melrose Bl.; and the east by Hillhurst.
LIVING SPACE. The most pleasant areas to live that most of us can afford, are the East San Fernando Valley, including anywhere in Burbank, Glendale, Sunland, Tujunga, La Crescenta, La Canada. Parts of North Hollywood are OK, but much of Sun Valley is pretty poor. Forget San Fernando, Panorama City, Arleta, Van Nuys, or Sylmar unless you're a gang member. Northridge and Chatsworth are nice, if a bit pricey for the locale, and anywhere along the south edge of The Valley, around Ventura Bl., and you'd better be rich. San Gabriel Valley, especially Pasadena and Arcadia, have some nice spots, too. If you want to live right in Hollywood, you can do it, but it's also expensive, NOISY, and the street people are something you have to deal with. I did it for several years, and wouldn't do it again if you paid me. West Hollywood and Silverlake are VERY nice, a bit pricey, but they have a GREAT Gay community and a lot of cultural attractions. Anywhere south of Melrose, and you get into some older neightborhoods that range from rich old Jewish and Asian families to used-up ghettos. I wouldn't recommend anything south of Melrose unless you want to go to the beach communities. Too many gang problems.
Finally, if you get the chance to film something out on our streets, you'd better get insurance and a film permit. Personally, I have a big political problem with the EIDC (Entertainment Industry Development Corp.) the entity that hands out film permits. They are, simply put, corrupt. The rates they charge for even ametuer or low-budget film permits are prohibitive, and they won't issue one without approved insurance. If you try to go guerrilla filming and the cops catch you, you WILL LOSE your equipment. I can remember when I used to be able to get a film permit from City Hall for FREE, but now it's a minimum of about $900-$1,100 for the permit and basic insurance. No wonder there are so many productions going elsewhere, considering the featherbedding that is happening in theis town. But, that's the game we have to play, and I will say that the EIDC will help you with certain location preparations, so it kind-of balances out.
GOOD LUCK!
OOPS
Actually, Los Angeles was incorporated in 1781. Can't believe I made that mistake. I should be taken out and kicked.